Parts are beginning to show up for the lathe/cnc project, and I just got an email informing me that my new shotgun has been shipped.
#Tc contender barrels mgm free
You have got to realize by now that I enjoy building the mechanisms almost as much as shooting the end results.ĭue to the fact that I am no longer employed, I find that I have less and less free time, don't know how I found time to work before I retired. it just would be as fast as the automated method. You could probably hold them in your fingers. The case head will be below 300 degrees (F), which is well below the critical temperature of 482 degrees (F) at which the first changes in grain structure can occur.”īecause induction heaters concentrate the heat and no heating takes place when you de-energize the coil, I believe that I can hold the temp down to a point below 482 just below the shoulder let alone anywhere near the case head. The shoulder will be a bit cooler than the neck, and the body cooler yet. We have raised the temperature sufficiently to be able to anneal the case necks in 6 to 8 seconds. Remember, it's the combination of time AND temperature that does the job. “With this setup, the neck will actually reach a temperature between 750 and 800 degrees. Specifically these two paragraphs which I referenced when conceiving my process. Due to the terribly narrow heat zone it may well be possible nor even quench them. When the brass is cool enough it will release the case into the water to complete the cool down. The case will be held at the correct height in the coil by a solenoid operated catch. I can also control the residual temp in the brass before I cool it in the water. The time to reach annealing temperature will likely be 2 to 4 seconds. I am pretty sure that I can heat an area about 3/16" wide to nearly any temp from boiling water to melting the brass and anywhere in between. Part of the neat thing about the induction heater when used to anneal is the very small heat affected zone that can be obtained. Throwing a chamber cast, while is sounds neat will provide you with nothing that can't gleaned from a fired case. You should be able to quickly tell which chamber is tightest and use that means to separate your brass. It will act as a very simple GO / NOGO gauge. If you insert a fired case into each chamber it will tell you which chamber is tighter. 001 inch which is fine for your purposes. You can measure any discernible differences in the cases with a with a $40 Walmart micrometer It will be accurate withing. That will put them back to an annealed state. Stand them in 1/2 inch of water and heat the necks and shoulder angle to dull red and tip them over in the water. Its to hard to be stretched that quickly. The violence from being suddenly final formed is cracking it. When brass is worked slowly in steps it gets hard but it can be worked in this manor without breaking but fire forming is different. I assume you made it from 30-30 or 225 Winchester. The brass has not gotten hard because of firing, it has more probably gotten hard from being worked from its parent cartridge. Its a hard brass problem as mentioned above. You will learn nothing of value in this case. Don't waste your time casting the chamber. HOWEVER, if the cases are cracking in the neck the BRASS is too hard and needs to be annealed. It is MOST common in cases that have been work hardened by re-forming.
I have seen this problem with new unfired brass as well as once fired brass. By standing it in the water you insure that you do not get the cartridge head too hot (annealing the head is not a good thing). Don't worry that the shoulder gets hot, that wont hurt a thing. Heat the NECK of the case to a dull red with a propane or MAPP gas torch (don't get it so hot that you melt the brass) then knock the case over into the water. Place a cartridge standing up in the partial filled pie pan. The easiest way I know of to anneal cases without a bunch of hassle is to use a pie pan deep enough to fill with water so that when you lay the case down it is COMPLETELY covered. Because this involves heating the case the bullet, powder and primer must be removed. You need to break down the loads and anneal the cases. The brass is harder than it should be causing the cracks when the brass expands at the neck. Regardless of which barrel they were fire formed in the necks expand a little when fired and you will have the problem in both barrels.
It is NOT the chambers causing the problem.
0 kommentar(er)
